THE HANDMAIDS TALE: RECREATION UPON THE RUNWAY

The first, second and third wave of feminism culminates to become a 20th century retrospective depicted on the runway.

Elizabeth Moss in the exalted 'The Handmaid's tale' (2017)

I remember the first time delving into Margaret Atwood's dystopia novel "The handmaid's tale": a visceral, bleak and prolific exploration of male-female dynamics within a theonomic dictatorship characterised by infertility. The novel's icon: the handmaids clad in garments of red and optic white visors to shield from the eye of man. They were both eves- the "harbingers of human suffering" but also a salvation for the intrinsic need to preserve the human race and consolidate the future.

This reading experience left a prevalent effect on the late 20th century audience -regarding late second wave feminism- and continues to serve as a model piece of feminist literature depicting this primitive but equally, convoluted mindset as actuality. Elements of this society linger within the recesses of current affairs: Trump's America, and the unfurling of Hollywood's illustrious visage- a facade to mask the patriarchy that is innate within the make up of our society, depicting the extent to which this literary work is still painfully relevant. The month after the release of the televised series, protests within Texas, Missouri and Washington DC-condemning anti-abortion legislation- broke out, the protesters swathed in the the handmaids' garments.

This enduring work of literature has been taken from paper, a 2-dimensional portrayal, and transformed into chilling and insightful art, taking elements of inspiration from the designs of Channel 4/ Hulu's commended drama series of The Handmaid's Tale (2017) -taking Atwood's unsettling premise and revitalising this in moving, sentient magnificence.

Vera Wang's multi faceted collection depicts the fusion of a perverse sense of Mormonism, from which the milk-maid, agricultural-esque bonnet connotes, with more sensual undertones. There is a certain decadence to this array of , refuting the idea of the rawness and austerity central to the design of the handmaids. The inclusion of luxurious layered fabrics, bearing flesh- an anomaly within Atwood's envision- platform booties and eye catching diamante detail all deviates from the notion of the 'ideal woman' (not merely the handmaids but also the commander's wives) within the world that 'The Handmaid's Tale' asserted. This conveys the sense of rebellion that women today champion, against those attempting to make this fiction, a reality, no matter how covert. However, the collection remains true to Atwood's envision in some aspects, such as the all-encompassing bonnet/visor and the patterns connoting medieval-ism, suggesting elements within the novel are still prevalent today- for example the increasing number of sexual assaults and misconduct within show business and everyday incidents, and how women are pressured to conform to dress codes to 'prevent' this.

Vera Wang SS/18

Whilst Vera Wang's collection made the iconic visor the focal point of the SS/18 collection, Vaquera has ensured that not only , but there is a certain retrospective concerning the development of the struggle for women's rights, not merely as written law, but also the aspect regarding social expression.

Observe below, the Niche established by the eclectic collective. Like Vera Wang, sensuality is prevalent throughout the collection- for the interpretations of womens' development is not censored by the mindsets of the respective time period. These range from homages to the suffragette struggle for women's votes throughout the course of the early 20th century to the statement made by the iconic burning of bras throughout the 1960s/1970s. This demonstrated the rejection of the beauty standards regarding the female body that had been and unfortunately, remains seared into our society's quintessence.

Nearly all pieces are adorned with red- the colour connoting lust but equally fruitfulness and bountifulness - a central motif within Atwood's novel. The deviation from this characteristic, conveys the patriarchal ideals revolving around the woman. The woman encircled by a white mesh casing, this shielding like an umbrella, but from the male eye (linking back to Atwood's presentation of the handmaids). However, the woman is paradoxically sexualised, giving insight into the omnipotence of patriarchy within the past, which has only recently started to deplete. The inclusion of mesh within the collection signals both oppression and the burgeoning of sexual freedom, an unsettling ''limbo' that is still central within our current society.

This principle ties into the ideals of innocence, also ironically championed within The Handmaid's Tale. Within Vaquera's display this is channeled within the last two pictures, where a lolita- esque theme is prevalent , suggesting the extent to which women's naivety and innocence had been championed throughout history. The bound hands, the simplicity of the slip dress and brocade milk-maid hat and the unnatural child-like proportions, remiscent of a China doll. Both collections transcend being pieces of clothing rather, are pieces of art which time stamp the paramount importance of the feminist cause.

The Handmaid's Tale- inspired collection funded by Hulu and made actuality by Vaquera- a new label challenging the lack of diversity within the fashion industry.