Spotlight: Jacquemus

Initially a relatively obscure label, 'Jacquemus' has exploded onto the fashion scene with its 2018 collections. His work has transformed the schema surrounding womenswear and what is considered 'normal' -all the while an utterance on the tongues of fashion's elite. Who is the mastermind of this fashion coup you ask? Simon porte Jacquemus, hailing from the south of France, entered the world of fashion in 2009 with no solid connections and little exposure after his attendance of ESMOD school of fashion had been cut short by the death of his mother, Valerie. Tag along as i delve into the rich eclecticism of Jacquemus' most prominent collections.

SS/18 "La Bomba"

This was the collection that really propelled Jacquemus into the spotlight, where he seemed to revel in

channelling 80s supermodel glamour and excess, with beach playfulness

Languorously draped linens and cottons swathed in palettes of rustic orange and beige/cream undertones are offset with abstract earrings and tiny hand-held bags . Burnt rust mini-dresses framed with netting (think glamourous Fisherman's wife) were seen paired with outrageously oversized crepe-straw hats, that frame the silhouette and scream celebrity status.

Jacquemus has cemented the notion of the modern 'Art Deco woman' through drawing attention to a certain aesthetic achieved through headwraps, skirts fringed with iridescent tassels and unconventional construction.

T H E F L O U R I S H I N G O F J A C Q U E M U S: HIGHLIGHTS

FW/17 "L'amour D'un Gitan"

This collection remains my favourite showcase jacquemus has to offer. There's something about the way the tailoring moulds his garments to frame and embellish the female form. Cocoon shaped skirts that elongate the torso are met with frilling that also reaches the bust, closely echo shapes and silhouettes the Flapper age popularised, and drips with Parisian chic.

Linen shirts and blazers exposing the neckline and cinching the waist are accentuated through the pink hue of the runway. Assymmetricalism is a huge theme within this collection and is channelled heavily in his following designs.

FW/16 "La construction"

Whilst 'La construction' is not the of Jacquemus' , the playful construction and imaginative use of shapes and contrast is not a feat to be downplayed. Jacquemus arguably centres his tailoring on the socio-political phenomenon of the Zoot Suit, which allowed the USA's minority demographics to resist assimilation during the 1940s/1950s However, these exaggerated proportions could also be a nod to the focus on 'armouring' modern women. The origins of the unconventionality of proportions in 'La Bomba', can be traced to this collection, from splicing of materials (through the use of bows) to references to nature (pond-leaf block shapes).

SS/15 "Les Parasols de Marseille "

The distortion of proportions and layering of 3D block colour shapes within the spring/summer showcase were practices heavily implicated in Jacquemus' following collections. These features defined the "L'infant du soleil" showcase, culminating to become audacious and unsettling walking pieces of art.

This emphasis on the 'abstract' is also heavily implemented within Jacquemus' FW/15 "L'infant du soleil" collection (seen below)

The distortion of the human proportion using flowing cotton shirts and candy cane stripes was the overarching focus of this Jacquemus collection. This

experimentation was expressed through cami dresses (with abstract block shapes), crop tops and shirt-bikini combinations- culminating to become a playful and fresh exploration of summer attire.