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Runway report: Walking on water at Saint Laurent

  • Writer: Jasmine Bedeau
    Jasmine Bedeau
  • Sep 25, 2018
  • 2 min read

On a mere day two of Paris Fashion week, Saint Laurent did the unimaginable- establishing a new take on the phrase 'walking on water'.

In the distance, the Eiffel tower loomed behind the set of the Trocadéro fountain- a glistening mirage- whilst faux palm trees, bathing in neon white light, set the stage for Vaccarello's tropical- psychedelic showcase. Models stomped and splashed across the infinity pool christened by the moonlight, leaving the audience enraptured and under the illusion Saint Laurent's muses were flitting across water.

Anthony Vaccarello charts key pieces from the 60s, 70s and 80s, all the while incorporating Saint Laurent's signature parisian androgyny. Power-shoulder cocktail dresses and sixties' mini-shift get-ups culminated to become an ode to the LBD's longevity across the ages.

Silk trimmed 'Le smoking' tuxedos cut close to the shoulders, Bucaneer-esque bolero military jackets cut in leathers and suedes were followed by waistcoats in corduroys and velvets, with this lineup being further graced by crystal-lattice muscle tanks and corset extension cigarette slacks.

Saint Laurent's accessories were also amplified (of course), with snakeskin cowboy boots, XL platforms, heart shaped aviators, pussybow neck ruffs in animal prints, floppy flat-top hats, embellished headbands and star brooches all coinciding with the coachella-inspired and rock infused glitz and glamour. Cobalt winged dresses with star embellishments also made an appearance, adorning models such as Adut Akech and bringing fresh relevance to 80s elevated shoulders. Naturally, this display was an accolade to Saint Laurent's Rock n Roll fan fanatics, that counts Kate Moss (present in the FROW) within its numbers.

After a string of leopard print looks, the end procession came bearing variations of the infamous black slip dress, alternating from the original number to deconstructed, plunging bodysuits- or rather, swimsuits. Fitting for Vacarello's modern reinvention of the pool party.

 
 
 

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